The long way home...

It seemed like I was traveling for days, instead of hours. Today started at 6:15, London time, and by the time I got to the airport, through check-in and two security checks, I was already tired.  I was surprised that I wasn’t subjected to a strip search.  The flight to Atlanta was 9 long hours, but at least I had a nice Aussie gentleman in the seat next to me. I alternated reading my book, doing crossword puzzles, and napping. 

Delta food is palatable enough and I had Cajun chicken and yellow rice with veggies for breakfast. About an hour before we landed we had a snack of pizza and ice cream.  Some screaming children created some disturbance, and I managed to develop an excruciating headache by the time we landed. I would have had a strong adult beverage if I hadn’t left my free drink coupons at home.

After a rough landing, the “cattle drive” began in earnest.  We were herded off the plane, then through passport control, then baggage reclaim, then customs, then baggage check-in, then security (again), and finally emerged from the depths of Hartsfield to determine our gate assignments. Up escalators, on trains, up more escalators, down concourses, until finally I spotted the place I’d been looking for: a bar. No, I am not a lush, but after the trip I had just made and the screaming migraine that was developing, I deserved some adult refreshment.  Craving a Guinness, but not wanting to be disappointed, I settled for a Samuel Adams Cream Stout (in a bottle). I must say, it is pretty darn close to a Guinness on tap.  Feeling homesick for the real Guinness, I had two. That, and an Excedrin Migraine, and the headache started to ease up.

As I type this, while waiting for the final leg of my journey, I hear the loudspeaker announce that my flight has been delayed.  The crowd of people around me groans in disappointment, but I am not upset.  The bar is two doors down from my gate. 

I do love to travel, but in all honesty, I prefer “being there” to “getting there”.  All in all, though, the last two weeks have been an incredible experience.  I’ve learned so much about international travel, met some amazing people, and been to some fantastic places.  Not to mention spending two weeks with my Aunt Anne, who is one of my favorite people.

I’m already thinking ahead to my next trip, maybe in two years…and my next grand adventure. 

Trains, planes, and airports...

Our last day in Ireland started out rather gloomy.  We arose early to be ready and at the station to catch the 9:00 am train to Dublin.  The rail website mentioned being at the station 20 minutes early.  We’ve noticed that the taxis always run a few minutes late in Sligo so we ordered our taxi for 8:15 am.  He arrived at about 8:18 am and we got to the station at about 8:30.  We were the only ones in the station at that time, and even at 8:40.  But there was no train to board at 8:40.  Most people arrived a few minutes before 9 and the train didn’t arrive until about 9:05.

We wrestled our luggage aboard the train and settled in for the 3 hour trip.  The train was surprisingly clean and comfortable, and the trip felt shorter than the actual time it took to reach Dublin.  After disembarking, we toted our suitcases, totes, and camera bags over to the Bus Eireann station a block over from Connolly train station.   Luckily, we found a bus heading to the airport, were the first to board, and were able to stow our luggage with a minimum of fuss.   A short drive to the airport and we were on our way into Terminal 2 for the “cattle drive” through check-in and security.

Now I must say, that the Dublin Airport is a wonderful airport.  Check-in was effortless, security was a breeze, and everyone we encountered was pleasant.  In T2, as it’s called, there is a bar/restaurant called The Slaney.  If you are ever in the Dublin Airport, in Terminal 2, you must stop there for a bite and a pint.  The prices are excellent, and the help is friendly.  We shared a chicken club sandwich that was outstanding, and we each had a some Guinness.  Before you criticize, just remember it was my last chance to have REAL Irish Guinness out of the tap.  We have about another hour before our gate opens, so I’ll probably have one more. :) 

Oh  joy, it's now 4:00 and we've just learned that our flight has been delayed for 45 minutes.  But no worries, because I have good travel karma and I know we will arrive safely.  The plane took off and with a tail wind we ended up only 30 minutes later arriving at Gatwick.  The ensuing maze through the South Terminal to get baggage, go through customs, and an extra security check went without a hitch.  Our only difficulty was finding the hotel, and after asking directions from a time-challenged employee we arrived at the Courtyard by Marriot.  Check-in was busy, but we got upstairs to our rooms and got situated.  We then went downstairs in search of a small bite to eat before retiring.  

One does not go to the dining room at the Courtyard at Gatwick with the expectation of being seated promptly.  That being said, I had a lovely G&T (Bombay Sapphire, no less) while waiting for our table, and visited with a very nice woman from South Carolina who had just been to Provence. We eventually got our table, after a slight miscommunication with the hostess, and I had lovely Chinese Duck Pancakes with Ho-Sin sauce and an excellent glass of California merlot.  Anne had Tempura Prawns with a bit of salad greens, that she said was delicious.

So we our about to hop into bed, as tomorrow is another long day of travel for both of us.  Anne is off to Sweden to visit friends, and I return to the States, my kids, my cats, my family, my friends, and my bed!  Will post a wrap-up of the trip in a day or two, so check back for the final review!

Last day and night in Ireland

Our last day in Ireland was very wet.  We tried one outing - to Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery - but weren't able to stay long due to the rain.  It was a great experience, nevertheless.  The rain kept us indoors most of the day, but I was able to work on photos taken, and Anne rested and read.

It cleared enough around 4:30 for us to go in search of supper, and we had a nice Italian dinner at the Bistro Bianconi. One of the freshest salads I've ever had and a gourmet pizza that was absolutely delicious, washed down with a little merlot.  Not the traditional Irish meal I wanted to end the journey on, but a great meal!

All the packing got done and plans made for traveling today and we went to bed.  Now it's up early and ready to go.  We'll get a bite of breakfast and then we're off to the train station to catch the 9:00 for Dublin.
(My very first train ride!)

Our plane leaves at 4:40 for London, so I'll try to post later this evening after we arrive.

Crosses, churches, cows, and cliffs....

Happy Irish cows

County Galway has a very diverse landscape. Bay, ocean, mountains, cliffs, burren, green fields--all are encountered as one travels around this spectacular county, and the adjoining County Clare. Galway city is one of the fastest growing cities in Europe. Tourism, fishing, pharmaceuticals, and computer technology, are the predominate industries. 

Today's adventure was a wonderful tour by the Galway Tour Company.  Our most excellent driver and guide was Eamon, who entertained us with history, folklore, stories, and song.  We went through several villages to see castles, churches, crosses, and yes...cows.  I've taken alot of photos of cows.  There is just something about that pastoral scene that calms the nerves.  Anne says it's because I love Irish butter. (Irish cows must be as happy as California cows, because Irish butter is to die for.)

Dunguaire Castle

Dunguaire Castle is probably the most famous land mark that is associated with the village of Kinvara. This restored 16th century tower house was built in 1520 by the O'Hynes clan and sits on a rocky outcrop on the shores of Galway Bay, 300 yards outside the village of Kinvara. The view was breathtaking, and so was the cold wind. Brrrrrrrr.

Ballyalban fairy fort

The fairy fort at Ballyalban is a prehistoric earthen ring fort.  It would have once been topped with a wooden structure or pallisade.  

Irish legend has it that these rings are inhabited and guarded by the fairy folk. Terrible things happen to people who try to disturb the ground, or cut down any trees in the ring, so the story goes.

Poulnabrone Dolmen

Poulnabrone Dolmen is one of the oldest dolmens in Ireland.  It's name means "hole of sorrows". 

It is a megalithic tomb site where uncremated remains were found and the site has been dated to 2500 BC.  It sits on the limestone pavement of the Burren, which gives it an ancient, otherworldly feel.

Doorty Cross

Kilfenora is situated in the Burren region of County Clare. St Fachtna founded a monastery there during the sixth century. The present Cathedral was built between 1189 and 1200. 

There were originally seven crosses in Kilfenora and it was known as the city of the crosses, in 1821 one of its finest crosses was removed to Killaloe, of the remaining six crosses three are complete, these include the most famous of all, the Doorty Cross and also the West Cross. 

Cliffs of Moher

The crowning glory of the tour was the Cliffs of Moher, probably the most iconic (and most photographed) symbol of the Irish landscape.  It is magnificent, and sadly, my photographs don't do it justice. 

There are several viewing areas reached by steep climbs.  Also, there is an incredible view from atop O'Briens tower which sits on a rocky outcrop. The wind is fierce, and cold!

The weather could not have been more beautiful for our outing today, and we are pleasantly tired from our exertions.  So it's time to do some packing because tomorrow we're off to Sligo, the last stop of the journey. 

Beautiful Killarney

Muckross House

A rainbow greeted us upon arising—a fitting omen to a fortuitous day. Our Killarney highlights tour was off, then on again, and finally turned out to be a private tour with just our driver Mike, Anne, and I.  The tour should have been cancelled due to lack of bookings, but Mike was nice enough to agree to take us around anyway.  

Muckross House was our first stop. It is a substantial Victorian estate with a walled garden, sweeping lawns, beautiful lake-front vistas, and an oak tree I wanted to climb and cuddle. The house had a rather foreboding look about it, but the gardens were delightful.

Ladies' View

Next we visited Ladies’ View, so named because when Queen Victoria visited the region, it was the favorite place of the Queen and her entourage. The view is stunning. It was very cool and extremely windy, so photographing it was a challenge, but well worth the effort. 

Ross Castle

Afterwards, we traveled to Ross Castle, the imposing ruin of a 15^th century tower house, with more marvelous lake views.  Inisfallen Island is directly across from the castle, home of the ruins of Inisfallen Abbey, founded about AD 600.  It was also very cool and windy there, as evidenced by the ducks huddling down for warmth.

Aghadoe

Happy to be out of the wind for a bit, we climbed into the van and headed to Aghadoe. This small tower ruin was interesting, in that I was able to actually get inside and even go up a narrow flight of stairs to an upper level.  The ruin was in excellent condition, and the view from the top of the hill was spectacular.  There was a large field of wildflowers that put me in mind of the scene from the Sound of Music. (And NO, I did not start humming it to myself.)

St Mary's Cathedral

Last stop was the Cathedral of St Mary's, which was built in the 1750's.  It has amazing stained glass windows, gothic arches, and a vaulted ceiling with the original timbers still in place.

We finished off the day with a stop at The Laurels, where Con serves up a nice pint of Guinness, and a healthy dose of blarney. He was a dear man and we enjoyed our break there.  After walking around town a bit we stopped at the Crock of Gold for supper, and then made the long walk back to the hotel. Anne and I both agree, that Killarney has been our favorite stop, so far.  Tomorrow we are headed to Galway for a look at Connemara, Dunguaire Castle, and some of their world-famous oysters. And of course, more Guinness!HHH

The Ring around Kerry is so very merry...

Eddie

There is a lot of hype surrounding the Ring of Kerry—and it is well-deserved.  We traveled from Killarney, along the N70, through the villages of Killorgolin, Cahersiveen, Waterville, Caherdaniel, and Sneem, just to name a few. Mountains, valleys, forests, and beaches all vied for the title of “Most Scenic Place”.  You can give yourself whiplash trying to look on both sides of the road to catch all the marvelous vistas that are presented for your consideration. 

Our driver, Eddie, was a wonderful character, full of stories and a wonderful sense of humor. He made several extra stops for our group to give us ample opportunity for taking photos of all the marvelous landscapes. He was very entertaining and full of the history and folklore of the area.

beach at Waterville

Stopping in Waterville, we strolled down to the beach on Dingle Bay, where it was very cool and windy! Snapped some great photos of the beach and then Anne and I decided that it was time to go indoors for some lunch. We stepped into the wonderful Fisherman’s Bar, where Anne had the best seafood chowder ever!  I know it was because she let me try some of hers and it was amazing. I opted for a half-pint of Guinness, which was all the lunch I needed. (Eddie and I are fellow Guinness stockholders.)

Atlantic Ocean at Coomakesta Pass

After lunch we continued round the ring and up to Coomakesta Pass where there is a marvelous view of the Atlantic Ocean on one side, and the valley of Lough Currane on the other.  I was going to have Anne take a picture of me there, but she was busy with her ice cream cone.  You know you are in the presence of an ice cream addict when they are enjoying one on the top of a mountain with the wind blowing at 30 miles and hour and it’s 50 degrees outside. I’m just saying….

Lough Currane valley

We ran into bad weather up around Moll’s Gap and down to Lady’s View, but for most of the trip we had pretty good weather. By the time we got back to the big lake at Killarney, the weather had cleared and the sun was out. Eddie made an unscheduled stop at Torc Waterfall, which was flowing well due to some recent heavy rains.

Torc Waterfall

 

A lovely supper of beef and Guinness pie, at the Crock of Gold, completed our outing and we took our time walking back to the hotel.  Walking down the colorful streets, past the cathedral, and the wonderful old chestnut tree that flanks the city center, it seemed as if we had been there for years, instead of just days.  The weather had cleared and we stopped at a picturesque little park situated on the banks of the River Flesk. The 2-mile walk was a perfect ending to another perfect day in Ireland.  Tomorrow is a local tour of Killarney National Park, Ross Castle, and surrounds.   

We’re hoping Eddie is our driver.

The Case of the cock-eyed map of Cork.

Today's adventure began with an extended tour of Cork -- on foot. Normally I am a good navigator, as my children and several of my friends can attest.  Give me a compass, and a map, and I can get you anywhere...if the map is accurate. A 2-mile walk in the wrong direction was a testimony to this principle. We somehow took a wrong turn on our way to the English Market and ended up completely on the wrong end of town.  A friendly woman walking past and a local Java Juice employee put us on the right track and we eventually made it to our destination.

on the road to Killarney

A delicious breakfast at the Farmgate Cafe followed by a pleasant walk back to the hotel completed our morning. We hauled our luggage to the bus station and boarded the #40 to Killarney.  The ride was interesting as the terrain changes quite a bit, becoming very rocky and rugged. Occasional heavy rain punctuated the trip, along with sporadic periods of sunshine.  We made it safely to Killarney and a very pleasant cabbie drove us to the hotel, providing helpful information along the way. The Killarney Oaks Hotel is lovely, but the wi-fi connection in the room is so weak it is almost non-existent.  Thank goodness the lobby is so nice and comfortable, because it has the only decent internet connection. 

on the road to Killarney

After checking in, we took the 2 1/2 mile walk up to the town center and had a look around.  We stopped at Corcoran's to schedule a couple of tours to the Ring of Kerry, and Killarney National Park and surrounding area.  Sean and Eric were so nice and very helpful. Tomorrow we tour the Ring of Kerry, with it's stunning scenery.  Wednesday it's the park, Ross Castle, and other sights in and around Killarney.  We have been blessed with wonderful weather, so far, and hope that it continues for the next few days.

12th century meets 21st century...

view from Compass Hill

Today was one of the prettiest days we've had since arriving in Ireland. Graced with sunshine all day, we barely noticed the 30 mph gusts as we traversed the charming village of Kinsale. The earliest records show that a small walled area was founded as the town of Kinsale in the 12th century by the Anglo-Normans. Portions of the original walls still survive in different areas of the village. In 1666 it was described as "one of the most significant harbours in Europe", trading in wine and in salt.

the never-ending stairs

Compass Hill is an excellent vantage point to see over the harbor.  Where sailboats and yachts now dominate the scene, hundreds of fishing boats used to anchor, delivering their cargoes of mackerel and herring.  Old stone walls, and narrow winding streets with colorful shops and houses, along with road grades of around 80 degrees in some places, made for interesting exploration. Not to mention the neverending stairs...but I digress.

Desmond Castle

Desmond Castle, a 16th century customs house, and also a residence, was used as an arms store by the Spanish in 1601,and to house French captives in the 18th century. It is now the International Museum of Wine.

Lord Kingsale Pub

After our extensive walking we decided to pop in to the Lord Kingsale Pub, where I had my very first Guinness.  It was delicious! The pub takes its name from the first Anglo-Norman baron who took charge of this Irish port in 1223. It was clean, cozy, and a very comfortable place to rest our feet and refresh ourselves.






Tomorrow, we visit the English Market, here in Cork, before traveling to Killarney, and another new adventure.

Goodbye Dublin, Hello Cork!

from the Book of Kells

After a quick breakfast at the Mona Lisa Cafe, across from Trinity College, we visited the Book of Kells Exhibition at the Old Library at Trinity College.  It was not exactly what I expected, but the exhibit was well designed and very informational. 

the Long Room

The Long Room upstairs, was just amazing. No photography was allowed, so the photos on the left are from the internet.









The bus ride to Cork took about 4 1/2 hours. We saw some beautiful fields, rolling hills, and the occasional ruin, as we travelled south. Sunshine vied with rain as the predominate weather pattern, with rain winning out in the end. Our arrival in Cork was damp and windy!  The good news is that the bus station is only a block from the hotel, so it didn't take long to walk there. Which was fortunate since rolling heavy luggage across cobblestones, while dodging traffic can be a challenge! 

view from our hotel

We celebrated our nimbleness with an excellent meal at Market Lane, a comfortably trendy, yet casual restaurant with excellent food. Anne's pan-fried hake,sauteed vegetables, and lime-walnut pesto was mouth-watering to look at. It must have been good because I almost had to stop Anne from licking her plate! (Just kidding!)  I had spaghetti with tiger prawns and smoked salmon. Grilled zucchini and the house cabernet complimented the spaghetti well.  But the crowning glory of the meal was a chocolate bailey's tart with cream, that was indescribably delicious.  YUMMY!





The weather took a turn for the worse while we dined, causing us to briskly walk the two blocks back to the hotel.  After a nice 15 minute yoga workout, we bathed and readied ourselves for bed.  Now for a nice read before lights out.   Tomorrow is a day trip to Kinsale, and hopefully fresh oysters on the half shell for lunch!

Also, a Happy Mother's Day to all the special Mom's out there!  I wanted to be the first to wish you all a great day!

Walking back in time...

roof box and tomb entrance

Today was another perfect Irish day, starting with a perfect Irish breakfast at Juno's Cafe.  Anne and I have officially become regulars! After breakfast we took the tram up to the bus station and started out for Drogheda, on our way to Newgrange.  It was constructed over 5,000 years ago (about 3,200 B.C.), making it older than Stonehenge in England and the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt. Newgrange is part of a complex of monuments built along a bend of the River Boyne known collectively as Brú na Bóinne.

kerbstone with spiral carvings

Newgrange is best known for the illumination of its passage and chamber by the winter solstice sun. Above the entrance to the passage there is an opening called a roof-box. Its purpose is to allow sunlight to penetrate the chamber on the shortest days of the year, around December 21, the winter solstice.

The weather was beautiful for our day out and when we got back to Dublin, we made a beeline for Ryan's to get some Guinness and a beef and Guinness pie.  Alas, we forgot about it being Friday night, and by 4:45 pm Ryan's was completely packed.  So we trotted down to Juno's for another one of their famous organic beef burgers and a bottle of their house red, which was very good. I may never eat another hamburger after consuming the perfection that is Juno's burger!

River Boyne

Tonight we pack up our luggage and make ready for our departure to Cork.  Tomorrow morning we will stop by Trinity College's Old Library to have a peek at the book of Kells, before checking out and heading to Cork City. The Book of Kells  is celebrated for its lavish decoration. The manuscript contains the four Gospels in Latin based on a Vulgate text, written on vellum (prepared calfskin), in a bold and expert version of the script known as "insular majuscule". 

Signing off now to pack and make ready for tomorrow's big adventure!